Up and down, hit the lip! Ok, now what? You se, I just watched an old movie by Bruce Brown. The guys in that movie, Dora, Carson, Edwards, Aaberg, Ford, Jacobs, Morey, Yater and many more are so much better than the guys in the water now! Yes the young guys have all the skills, but they don't have the poise! I can think of only 2 that do and won't mention their names. Even on the heavy boards of tne late 50'S and early 60'S with the fins that so called turned slow? The short board has beought a sameness of motion to surfing. Most guys look the same as the others! Why? Because they have their feet in the same place and ride the same way as each other! Now we have the longboard guys that stand on the tail and hit the lip and do turns. What the hell is that? Ok, heres for the ego, I was in Kauai last year and a local comes over and asks how long have I been surfing? I told him and he said it was nice to see someone ridding so smothly up and back, walking in both directions, going to the nose and comming off at the last second etc. Not bad for an old guy! Hah
Wow, guys turning their boards!!! What a tragedy!!! It's too bad we all can't take off on a big fat slow board and cross step to a trim and then cross step back. That takes a lot of skill. Ha!!!! I have been in the water with Dora, Edwards, and Carson and they all ripped with style. You sound like a kook.
HS: You made my point! Where did cross step come from? Not part of the talk back in the day. Walk the nose and back was said by all. I'll have to watch that slow stuff again?
Fawn over no one! They just have the style the new guys don't have! Surfing Hollow Days and part of The Endless Summer. The parts shown before Robert and Mike started their trip.
What part of the talk from the 60s was "nice to see someone ridding so smothly up and back, walking in both directions, going to the nose and comming off at the last second etc."?
ridding smothly?? going to the nose?? I thought it was walking to the nose. comming off at the last second!!!!!! What the hell does that mean?
Sorry, not SanO.
13 comments:
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Sydney...that is so totally awesome...who is it...where is it...it is really way maxed out....plenty of radness, bro....aawwwoooo!
It's good to see Tubesteak back in the water.
Copper, huh, what, no way!
Way, dude, totally way.
Copper, who yah...to yah...bro...
No way, dudes. That's Kid n' Bro at Inners 3 weeks ago. He's the best!!!!
Up and down, hit the lip! Ok, now what? You se, I just watched an old movie by Bruce Brown. The guys in that movie, Dora, Carson, Edwards, Aaberg, Ford, Jacobs, Morey, Yater and many more are so much better than the guys in the water now! Yes the young guys have all the skills, but they don't have the poise! I can think of only 2 that do and won't mention their names. Even on the heavy boards of tne late 50'S and early 60'S with the fins that so called turned slow? The short board has beought a sameness of motion to surfing. Most guys look the same as the others! Why? Because they have their feet in the same place and ride the same way as each other! Now we have the longboard guys that stand on the tail and hit the lip and do turns. What the hell is that? Ok, heres for the ego, I was in Kauai last year and a local comes over and asks how long have I been surfing? I told him and he said it was nice to see someone ridding so smothly up and back, walking in both directions, going to the nose and comming off at the last second etc. Not bad for an old guy! Hah
Wow, guys turning their boards!!! What a tragedy!!! It's too bad we all can't take off on a big fat slow board and cross step to a trim and then cross step back. That takes a lot of skill. Ha!!!! I have been in the water with Dora, Edwards, and Carson and they all ripped with style. You sound like a kook.
HS: You made my point! Where did cross step come from? Not part of the talk back in the day. Walk the nose and back was said by all. I'll have to watch that slow stuff again?
"Front Row", what was the name of Bruce Brown's movie that featured all these guys over whom you fawn? I'm not a
longboarder.
Fawn over no one! They just have the style the new guys don't have! Surfing Hollow Days and part of The Endless Summer. The parts shown before Robert and Mike started their trip.
Sorry anonymous #1, I don't have that info.
What part of the talk from the 60s was "nice to see someone ridding so smothly up and back, walking in both directions, going to the nose and comming off at the last second etc."?
ridding smothly?? going to the nose?? I thought it was walking to the nose. comming off at the last second!!!!!! What the hell does that mean?
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