NOT AFFLIATED WITH THE SAN ONOFRE SURF/SURFING CLUB
The answer for me could be complicated or quite simple. If the waves are of just a fun size and the conditions are good, the crowd size is of no importance. Under these circumstances if there is something weighing heavy on my mind it doesn't matter. The only thing on my mind at that time is, thinking about the wave just had or the next wave I will catch.
Cause it is the only excitement I have left that does not include Viagra!
I have an explanation for the lack of response on your resent post Sweet. 98% of the people who say they surf don't. They just paddle out on their $1200.00 Stewart with their $400.00 Oneal wet suit on and talk to other people who did the same thing.
It's all good, I really liked your answer. Thanks for the insight. It explains why when I watch surfers, they all look so very much at peace.And of all the sports, surfers have the best butts.... Yum :)I think you're right about all those ones that just talk about it. In laguna Hills you have to own a Benz and claim to make no less than 6 figures. I guess in San Clemente you have to own the best board, and "claim" to be a surfer. Take it from me, someone who never misses an opportunity to watch a surfer in or out of the water. I can spot a surfer's butt from 50 yards.Oh Yea, and where are all those posers that kept bitching about the blog not being about surfing?It must be time for punch and graham crackers in the cut and paste room. Besides I'd take an old surfer on viagra anytime over a young poser with paste breath.;)
I Surf because the thrill of harnessing the cosmic energy of the universe in the form of moving water and being propelled down the face of a wave is the single most enjoyable act one can do. It puts you in tune with nature and humanity and god. The true meaning of happiness is to found in your passions. To ignore the compulsion to go surfing in counterintuitive.
YIKES!! I have been up staged by a dial-up, rats.
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