NOT AFFLIATED WITH THE SAN ONOFRE SURF/SURFING CLUB
You can't do that on that old board????
Show off.I have repeatedly asked my fellow contributors to refrain from posting surfing pictures or the masses will think this is a surf blog...
The old boards did it better than the new ones do but,it was much harder to do it though!
Very good! I thought the boards rode very well. I have pictures to prove it. Oh, One other thing, Talent, Ability!!!
Talent and ability, thats why Lance Carson was my Mentor when I was going up! Hi! T.T.!
Many guys did not chace the camera!! The guys that are in the first Surfer, well, some of them did! There were allot of guys that were better big time!! One of the guys in Surfer went after the cam, and made out because of it? However, Many guys were way better. Ahh, the ego deal?
The better "NOSE RIDERS" didn't have "EGO", they had FUN!!!!
Fun it was! Only a few with the ego! Never gave it a thought to chase the cam. If you were good, it came to you Remember Granny going from street to street to take pics??
Yep! And Granny went from street to street to take pics! I gotta a bunch!!
YEP! All the way back to 1960 for me! Then after the shoot, we would go to Granny's and look at the proofs, and stop at Garradies Submarine sandwich and bring them back to TB.
Oh yeah!! Not to mention the stop at the Green Store for something to drink!!!!
The green store is still running, but its owned by a Korean family! Nice people.
On The 8th day, God said, Let there be the Green store! It will be there long after were gone!!
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