Monday, July 10, 2006

Sorry Man, I didn't see you

It's hard to hide your personality out in the water. The same guy that cuts you off on the freeway, or ignores your blinker to merge left or right will be hopping in the lineup, or looking like he is going left and then go right at the last second. All the rules governing surfing are unwritten, and they are enforced only by the participants. Surfing is an aggressive sport, being courteous used to pay off, times have changed.

Long ago when the surf would go flat for days on end, we needed a supplement. Remember the old steel skates? The ones that came with a key and clamped to your tennis shoes. Well somebody took them apart and nailed them to a two by four, thus the skate board. All you needed was a street in the neighborhood with some down hill grade. They did not turn at all, so you would just bonzi, It was fun. The skate board has really evolved.

Surfing use to be all about style. You would drop in, make a huge bottom turn, step up and go into a roll-a-coaster, then step back and do a drop knee cut back, whip it around and stall, let the wave set up in front of you then run to the nose and stand there perched like a statue.

Your feet where never more than shoulder width apart or a little more, arms at your sides, straight or slightly bent, fingers straight, together and wrist slightly arched. When you did a maneuver, bottom turn, or a cut back you would raise your arms to chest high. Still straight or slightly bent, hands, fingers, wrist as mentioned before. When you ran to the nose, you might raise your arms over your head, hands side by side, fingers pointing straight up and arch your back. Now I could insert a lot of great names here but I won't, I will leave that to your imagination.

In the old days, surfers were always regarded as misfits or rebels, all they wanted to do is surf. If you had a car, maybe a 49 Dodge, it was broke down and did not run. It would be parked in some field, luckily near the beach and you lived in it. If you where really lucky and had a job, like rough plaining blanks at night for shapers, like somebody I use to know. You had money for food.

Today, surfing has become big business. There are big name sponsors involved and a hole lot of money. Although long boards are as popular as ever, on the circuit short boards are the big draw.

As boards got shorter, styles changed along with the looks of young surfers of today. Nothing wrong with change as long as you are still courteous in the water, and don't say things like sorry man I didn't see you.

A lot of the not so old, older guys with long board backgrounds, who also short board have great style. The young short boarder of today has fused skate boarding into their style, doing though maneuvers that score really big points. It is what surfing has evolved into.

Personally, to this day. Gerry Lopez rips.

9 comments:

puttzle said...

Ah jeez, Doctor. I just finished commenting on another post that there will be no surfing-centric posting on here any more. Now look what you've gone and done, made a liar out of me, you did!

peter gozinya said...

I can see that once again this stupid blog has devolved into a single minded blog about surfing and only surfing. this last entry should be banned by the Monitor for not being of the typr of content we are trying to represent here. I want to change the tone of the blog to include the gay contengent at san O, We have been relegated to shame status, outcast and ostricized by the "cool" one at the point. Let me tell you I surf right along side you everyday and I am proud of who i am. I have had a some great moments looking at cobbos skinny rear end in front of me, and I would not trade it for love or money.

Anonymous said...

HEY NOW, who writes this crapp. Youse guys don't know no Bo Diddley Squatt.

puttzle said...

Mr. Gozinya, I believe I have told you before, Start your own blog and you can make it however you want to. What you want as far as this blog goes means absolutely zilch to me, or I suspect to my co-horts. I only ask that you don't bring The blog monitor into this.

puttzle said...

Now, as far as Dr. Ralph's original post, I hear ya Doctor, but that's the way it is and the past is what it is, the past. Remember it fondly.

Steel skates? Oh yeah, any crack in the sidewalk or tiny rock would send you flying.

Lay Ya said...

where do we steel skates?

LARRY LOPEZ said...

SOUNDS LIKE YOU BAD DAY
IN THE LINE UP.
YOU SUIT & TIE GUYS DON`T GET IT
THAT TRICK OF LOOKS HE`S GOING
RIGHT BUT GOES LEFT. STILL WORKS
ON GUYS LIKE YOU IT`S GREAT
YOU SHOULD NOT STRESS ON IT SO MUCH
I THINK THAT`S WHY ALL YOU GUY`S AT
THE POINT ARE HAVING HART ATTACKS
MYBE GIVE YOUR SELF SOME VALIUM
AND THINK TO SELF WHY IM I HERE

BOZO said...

Why do people go to the circus?

Old enough to remember steel skates. said...

I found the article to be insightful and entertaining.

Moon Phase